The Attitude of Luxury cover

The Attitude of Luxury

Rating 3.9
Chapters
40
ISBN
9787308127172

Tags

Summary

The Attitude of Luxury is a collection of essays on luxury and the fashion industry by columnist Wang Ersong, most of them drawn from his column of the same name in New Weekly, later revised and expanded into fifty pieces and published in a revised edition by Zhejiang University Press in 2014. The book does not explain how to use luxury goods or forecast trends; it presents another face of luxury: its reverence for craft, its respect for aesthetics, its practitioners largely perfectionists, its deep humanistic and historical sediment, and its role as an interpreter of identity and detail. The author starts from the history of luxury and extends into the social, humanistic and financial dimensions of fashion and the luxury business. He writes about Hou Hsiao-hsien's film on the craftsmen of the Qianlong era for the National Palace Museum in Taipei, about the old artisans who weave ribbons for haute couture, about Moroccan jewelry boxes and "buying the casket for the pearl," and about Hermès' willingness to give up, Louis Vuitton's logic of expansion, Porsche's share-price swings, and the luxury industry's situation after the collapse of Lehman Brothers. Some fifty short essays string these seemingly far-flung threads together, mapping the causes and consequences of luxury with a broad vision and revealing the business logic and humanistic core behind it. The author's central attitude: anything that can be regarded as "luxury" usually carries a rich load; the opposite of luxury is not poverty but vulgarity.

Editor's review

很多写奢侈品的书,写的是价格、logo和潮流;这本书写的是手艺、放弃和分寸。 王迩淞是长期观察奢侈品与财经的专栏作家,在《新周刊》开设同名专栏多年。他把文章攒成这本书时,选的不是“十大必买包袋”,而是侯孝贤镜头下乾隆朝无名工匠的作品、给香奈儿高级定制织带的老太太、摩洛哥那只让人“买椟还珠”的首饰盒。从一条眼镜腿的歪斜,到爱马仕继承人如何守住品牌,再到保时捷股价与雷曼倒闭,他能把工艺细节和资本市场的K线放在同一篇文章里,而且毫不突兀。 本书最耐读的地方,是它给出的判断尺度:爱马仕“愿意放弃客人却赢得了客人”,LV“不肯放弃”反而承担了风险。“放弃与否便是划分是否奢侈品的一个界限”,这句话足以让今天谈品牌、谈溢价、谈长期主义的人重新想一遍。 2014年修订版在初版基础上修正了部分内容、增补了篇章,五十篇文章按七个主题编排,篇幅短小,随便翻开一页都能读下去,读完却会留下一个比“贵”复杂得多的印象。

Who it's for

A good fit for

  • 对奢侈品、时尚产业背后的商业逻辑与人文历史感兴趣的读者
  • 喜欢《新周刊》式财经文化随笔、偏好短篇专栏体的读者
  • 从事品牌、零售、设计或消费品行业,想理解“品牌为何值钱”的从业者
  • 想跳出消费符号、以工艺与审美视角重新看待奢侈品的普通读者

Not a good fit for

  • 想找奢侈品选购指南、比价攻略或流行趋势预测的读者
  • 期待系统化经济学理论框架、需要严格学术论述的读者
  • 对时尚与品牌话题完全无兴趣的读者

Reading tips

  1. 先读第一章《技艺的心》和第二章《放弃与否》,这两组文章集中体现了全书的价值观,也最容易读进去。
  2. 按主题跳读而非从头到尾:对商业案例感兴趣的读者可先看第三章,对文化审美感兴趣的读者可先看第四、五章。
  3. 读时可随手记下书中提到的品牌、人物与事件,事后再查相关背景,能把这五十来篇短文串成一张奢侈品行业的认知地图。
  4. 搭配阅读同一时期的财经新闻或品牌史著作,对照作者十余年前的观察与今天的行业变化,体会其判断是否仍然成立。

About the publisher

Zhejiang University Press China · Founded in 1984

Since its founding in 1984, Zhejiang University Press has published across fields ranging from science, engineering, agriculture and medicine to the humanities and social sciences, covering both academic monographs and general-interest titles. Judging from the 211 books in our catalog, its strengths lie in management, finance, social sciences, world history and biography. Representative works include Wu Xiaobo's financial titles such as "Day by Day" and "Tencent Biography", translations in the social sciences such as Chizuko Ueno's "Patriarchy and Capitalism", and biographical and historical works such as "Alexander Hamilton" and "The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire". Its authors include Chinese and international scholars and writers such as Wu Xiaobo, Chizuko Ueno and Ron Chernow. On the evidence of the catalog, the press combines academic translation with accessible finance and history writing, giving equal weight to specialist publishing and popular reading. It should be noted that public information on the press's full publishing structure and characteristics is limited.

Contents

  1. Author's Preface
  2. Chapter One: The Heart of Craft
  3. The Heart of Craft
  4. Massaro the Shoemaker
  5. Visual Memory
  6. The Moroccan Box and Buying the Casket for the Pearl
  7. The Luxury K-Line
  8. The Police Officer's Shirt
  9. The Life Story of a Tangled Skein
  10. Chapter Two: To Give Up or Not
  11. To Give Up or Not
  12. None Spared
  13. The Departing Figure
  14. Another Kind of "Departing Figure"
  15. The Savior
  16. Lipstick Index
  17. Discount Season
  18. Chapter Three: Who Created a Rival for LV
  19. Who Created a Rival for LV
  20. Porsche's Plot
  21. The Unbearable Merger
  22. The Fate of the Master
  23. Percentage Chocolate
  24. It's Not Strange
  25. All-Metal Chocolate
  26. Chapter Four: Needling
  27. Needling
  28. "Sorry, Your Glasses Are Crooked"
  29. Luxury Soy Sauce
  30. Character of the Year
  31. Roll Over! Boy
  32. A Robber's Taste
  33. A Glimpse of the Louvre
  34. The Devil Wears Prada
  35. Chapter Five: Decline Along the Way
  36. Decline Along the Way
  37. Old Money and New Money
  38. The Golden Armor and Nanko Plum
  39. Going Too Far
  40. Our Big Bubble

FAQ

《奢侈态度》是一本讲怎么买奢侈品的书吗?
不是。作者在书中明确表示,本书不是奢侈品的使用手册,也不是流行趋势指南,而是从工艺、历史、人文与财经角度谈“奢侈”这一现象。若想找选购或搭配建议,这本书会让你失望;若想理解品牌为何成立、为何昂贵,它更对路。
初版和修订版有什么区别?
初版2011年由浙江大学出版社出版,ISBN为9787308084864,收录文章三十余篇。2014年推出修订版,ISBN为9787308127172,修正了部分内容并增补篇章,扩充为五十篇、约297页,按七个主题分章编排。
这本书适合当作时尚行业入门读物吗?
可以作为入门读物,但它不是教科书。全书由短篇专栏文章组成,侧重个案与观察,缺少系统的行业框架。读者最好把它当作一位资深观察者的随笔集,边读边补充品牌史和商业史背景。
书名中的“态度”指什么?
作者强调的是一种看待奢侈的方式:关注工艺、审美与传承,而非炫耀性消费。书中借香奈儿的话表达立场——奢侈的对立面并不是贫穷,而是粗俗;并认为“肯放弃”是奢侈品牌与一般品牌的分界。

Comments

Find this book

This site is an index: you start “Search all sources” in your browser, and the entries it lists all point to third-party sites; please judge their availability yourself.

More by the same author

Top rated in the same category